Coasts

Definition of Waves

Waves are the movement of water caused by the transfer of energy through the water. They are usually generated by wind blowing over the surface of the water.

Types of Waves

• **Constructive Waves**: These waves have a gentle swash and a gentle backwash, causing material to be deposited on the beach.
• **Destructive Waves**: These waves have a strong swash and a strong backwash, causing material to be eroded from the beach.

Factors Affecting Wave Size

• **Wind Speed**: Stronger winds create larger waves.
• **Wind Duration**: Longer periods of wind create larger waves.
• **Fetch**: The distance over which the wind blows creates larger waves.

Wave Characteristics

• **Wave Height**: The vertical distance between the crest and the trough of the wave.
• **Wave Period**: The time taken for one wave to pass a given point.
• **Wave Length**: The horizontal distance between two consecutive wave crests or troughs.